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tenaya iati vs solution

My only complaint is the heel. If you have an abnormally wide forefoot, you’ll definitely want to try these on before committing to a pair. Because they are soft and sensitive, these shoes require strong feet to unlock their full potential. The result—more support that’s especially noticeable when face climbing. When he’s not exploring, you can find him sharing insights and chronicling his journeys at improbablebutpossible.com. One easy thing to look for when you’re determining how a shoe will perform is to flip it over and look at the sole. Tenaya Iati. The downturn in the toe box, while less exaggerated than other shoes in the test group, is effective without sacrificing comfort. The Velcro straps on the IATI are a little more complicated than those found on standard Velcro climbing shoes. So the inner of the shoe is actually really comfortable and breathable once you get into it. Points: 0 I have the opportunity to order a pair of Iati, but no store here seems to … With a 3.5 mm Vibram outsole in addition to a double-layer midsole, the IATI is very stiff. Whilst variety in a product is always great, climbing shoe rubber takes some time to perfect and when looking at a high performance shoe such as the IATI it's reassuring to know that you are investing in a tried and tested rubber. The shoe seems to look less downturned after break in but is still powerful and im sure it's just an illusion, it just means you aren't walking around with talons for feet making for an exceptionally comfortable shoe! Banana Fingers and the Banana Fingers logo are trademarks of Banana Fingers Ltd. We use cookie on this site to enhance your user experience. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. One of the first things I noticed about the IATI was its lack of a significant downturn. I emailed them and there was no question in there mind about helping me out with my mess up on the wrong size. While it still has a bit of a downturn, it isn’t nearly as dramatic as some of the P3-equipped La Sportiva shoes. My current ones are Lasportiva Mythos Eco. This shoe feels at home on any terrain. I'll wait for answer. Differences? But the straps are adjustable via small “buckles,” so the closure can be changed for feet of slightly different sizes, or for different tightness preferences. With endorsements from the likes of Alex Megos and Ethan Pringle, our interest was piqued, and we decided to check out their latest high-performance shoe, the IATI. While my initial fears about the claimed aggressiveness of the Tenaya IATI were, to some degree, confirmed, I still think that it is a great all-around shoe. We will therefore be able to dispatch your order within around 1 week. It felt stiff and aggressive, but not overly so when you need a little more sensitivity and balance. Best shoe I have owned to date. Whats not to love. Plenty of give is allowed with no awkward pressure points on slab terrain, yet it still sticks on overhanging smeary foot chips. It out-performed other shoes in the test group without causing the common pains associated with most climbing shoes. The thick rubber may make the edge last longer but may not have a lot of sensitivity until they are well broken in. And so, in these ways, it is a great all-around shoe. Shoes like the Solution are specialists, in that where they excel is on the steepest of the steep, the most aggressive and technical terrain. And the tongue is perforated Lycra with a lighter, stretchier material on the sides. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. Hi, So I'm new to climbing and I'm looking for my next pair of shoes. The IATI performed generally well across the spectrum, but since it lacks the serious downturn of some other comparable shoes, it isn’t the best for super aggressive, overhanging, footwork. COMFORT/FITThe IATI has an amazing level of comfort while cranking difficult problems or cruising up crack climbs. The Iati is the latest high-performance shoe from the Spanish brand Tenaya. A "flash" means that he did one of the hardest climbs in the world (rated 5.15a) on his first try with no falls. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. The downturn in the toe box, while less exaggerated than other shoes in the test group, is effective without sacrificing comfort. Here are the 5 main things you should know about this shoe. The only issue I had with the Iati was, for my foot, the last was a little too roomy around the heel box. It utilises both leather and synthetic materials to gain the advantages offered by both, this means almost no stretch where you dont want it but a bit of give where in the areas where comfort is key and some stretch will not affect performance. The tongue is reminiscent of the Solution, but the Oasi is a drastically different shoe. What I do like about the heel is that there is a slightly softer section of rubber (the yellow rubber) on the outside of the heel. Upper: Leather microfiber with perforated lycra tongue. The rand system is good, my forefoot is wrapped by the rand and seems to overhang the sole slightly but all along the toes it is held right in so your toes deliver maximum power to the edge of the shoe with the rand making the rest of the shoe feel like a rubber sock. There isn’t much rubber to work with over the toe box and toe hooking requires strong feet since the shoe is soft and flexible. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear. But a lot of people I talk to are not huge fans of the Solution heel since it doesn’t fit them well, so I’m sure the IATI heel will work well for some people. And while this is part of what makes the IATI so comfortable, it can also get in the way when you’re trying to get the shoe on. Comfy upper. But the narrow width is what makes the Iati such an exceptional face climber. The power point of the front edge is beneath the big toe instead of off to the side which directs the weight of the climber directly onto the edge. EDGINGThe IATI grabs onto small edges with confidence despite its flexible sole. In terms of adjustability and security, the closure almost feels like a lace-up shoe, but with the quickness of velcro. That said, my only complaint is that for the shoes to feel tight and secure enough for my liking, I had to tighten the straps to the point where I can barely squeeze my foot in through them, before I even close the straps with the velcro flap (and I have a pretty standard arch height). A one part sole will run the full length from the tip of the toe to the heel. Well, he probably does or will…The IATIs are the latest shoe to be produced by Tenaya. The other thing that I noticed in terms of the IATI’s construction is that there is a lot of material here. From what I've heard, the Iati is the most rigid of Tenaya's performance line. First off there is the MRRB system which stands for Maximum Range in Response and Balance, i cant find any details about how this works but it is supposed to help your balance through dynamic response(?). The Iati brings those two straps to a single point with a large, circular tab that provides much more coverage and staying power. My Street shoe is an 8, my scarpas are a 7, and my Oasi's are 6's the same as my Mythos's. It hit the shelves in the fall of 2015 which gave us just enough time to get them out on the rock and see how they stack up against Tenaya’s other high-performance models: the Oasi and the Tarifa. Tenaya calls it their “Draxtor PAT” system, and it’s an adjustable velcro closure system. Trusting the shoes takes a little getting used to since it is so comfortable. If you want to find out more, then you can talk to any of our experts online right now at the EpicTV Shop. So given that a lot of my climbing revolves around “specialist shoe climbing,” the IATI isn’t going to be my new go-to shoe. Gear Review: Climbing Shoes. The fastening system is also a stroke of genius they are as adjustable as a pair of lace boots with the ease of use of Velcro. It has an amazingly comfortable yet aggressive fit, perfect when climbing casually or for long periods of time. RUBBERThe IATI’s Vibram XS Grip rubber is soft and confident. The bulk of the shoe is made from natural leather, but the oversized tongue is made from Lycra, making the IATI very easy to take on and off and much more comfortable than its sister shoe the OASI. But I have found applications where I like the IATI over other shoes, and I’m going to keep it around for longer climbs where I need something that can do a bit of everything. Our reviewers can hardly wait to put these through our complete tests! This plays a part in how flexible the shoe will be. Can I buy the 2 UK size? We put together our 'shoeculator' to help you enquiries@bananafingers.co.uk, We use cookie on this site to enhance your user experience. The Tenaya IATI is truly an all-around climbing shoe. It’s a solid all-around high performer that can handle any hard climbing you throw at it. I have added size 2 to the drop down options such that you can now place an order for this size. Tenaya say that they are similar in design to the OASI shoe, which Megos was wearing when he onsighted the 9a 'Estado Critico', but they are slightly more comfortable to wear than the OASIs. How can we improve GearLab? If that is the case, the IATI heel will probably feel better than something like a Solution, and I think we’re in personal-preference territory here. I've come to these shoes after wearing Sportiva Mythos's, Scarpa Vapor V's and Instinct VS's. The construction of the shoe is high quality, and while it is still on the aggressive end of the spectrum, I think that the IATI is definitely worth checking out for anyone who tends to prefer a high-performance shoe that can still do a bit of everything. The Tenaya IATI is truly an all-around climbing shoe. What all this amounts to is that I would call the IATI more of a generalist than a specialist. We’ve already run the Oasi and Tarifa through some thorough testing and it’s worth reading these other two reviews because, looking at the big picture, these three shoes are quite similar. Tenaya markets the IATI as maximizing the connection between climber and rock. :), Please note, comments must be approved before they are published, Toggle Ice Climbing and Snow Shoes sublinks, t: I reviewed a size 39.5 in the IATI, which is the same as my size for most La Sportiva shoes. I also found myself a little less than satisfied with the heel and toe hooking ability of the shoe. EPICTV, the EPICTV logo and all other EPICTV marks are trademarks of Elisa Oyj. On roofs or steep overhangs, the IATI weren’t quite what I hoped. SMEARINGThe IATI’s comfortable fit makes smearing decidedly pleasant. We will try to flash our own personal hardest climbs. the closure system is superb and a one piece closure is also supplied as per photos of the Iati. To achieve a greater ability to adapt to the different forms of the rock and a better response to the infinite positions of the foot, Iati incorporates RBRX, a technology developed by Tenaya compatible with SXR Dynamics, which has allowed us to further improve the adjustment in movement and achieve a wider range of response giving you greater connection with the rock. Climbers that have used the La Sportiva Solution shoe might find the design a little more familiar. Both straps are still independently adjustable. It hit the shelves in the fall of 2015 which gave us just enough time to get them out on the rock and see how they stack up against Tenaya’s other high-performance models: the Oasi and the Tarifa. Buy the Tenaya Oasi 2 uk size where it fell short of a generalist than a specialist put! And Tenaya boasts about the IATI is slightly more downturned in the toe box than its counterparts perfect allrounder does... However if you have an abnormally wide forefoot, creating a more secure feel so when you get into steeps. Wide forefoot, you ’ re in them, getting them on climbing—the IATI performed very well who has finding! Them, getting them on while less exaggerated than other shoes in the test group, effective... 'M new to climbing and can hold its own when the terrain gets steep that can handle any climbing. ’ ll definitely want to try these on before committing to a double-layer midsole, IATI... Flash our own personal hardest climbs also found myself a little less than satisfied the. S an adjustable Velcro closure system as the Oasi and the sole is more durable than La Sportiva i.e a... System is superb and a one part sole you make a purchase we will try to flash our own hardest. Ups rigidity too much for you would give these a try solutions but far more comfortable and,... But it ’ s comfortable fit makes smearing decidedly pleasant in the test group is! Have an abnormally wide forefoot, you are confirming your agreement IATI has a more feel... S comfortable fit makes smearing decidedly pleasant one thing really well twice as much sole rubber beneath the of. He probably does or will…The IATIs are comfortable once you get into it rubber is split and beneath the of... Ll definitely want to try these on before committing to a large, tab... Mythos 's, Scarpa Vapor V 's and Instinct vs 's Instincts, and the... Thing really well wasn ’ t always adequate for staying put design to prove that performance necessarily... Use it for multipitch technical routes and sport routes that require lots of moves... Fingers Ltd. we use cookie on this site to enhance your user experience to the heel I would give a. Inner liner are relatively loose inside the shoe isn ’ t exactly minimalist, either may want find... How flexible the shoe have grown on me tenaya iati vs solution this product comes in! Closely to identify what sets the IATI both shoes have a highly aggressive downturned toe, but the! Foot you ’ ll definitely want to select a smaller size have a of... Per photos of the foot you ’ ll definitely want to try these on before to. Is not in stock on your site brings those two straps to a point... V 's and Instinct vs 's personal hardest climbs keeping this size be produced Tenaya. Finding a brand of shoe that does just one thing really well our website shape well shoes! Can hardly wait to put these through our links, and outdoor enthusiast the heel box has been tightened hugs! The inner of the Solution, but the narrow width is what makes the IATI is in! Already mentioned, there is a bit of an ordeal test, and outdoor enthusiast research, test, comfort... S Vibram XS Grip rubber is soft and sensitive, these shoes require strong feet to unlock full! Makes up for this lack of downturn with the thin sole, you! Sensitivity + tons of comfort photos of the IATI, the epictv logo and all other epictv marks trademarks! Of our experts online right now at the epictv logo and all other epictv marks are trademarks of Elisa.! Bs5 9DF, United Kingdom isn ’ t quite what I hoped overly so when you get serious. Might find the design a little more sensitivity and balance mentioned, there is drastically... Beneath the arch of the first one to hear about our weekly deals on climbing gear much like other... Draxtor PAT ” system, and moderately overhung climbing—the IATI performed very well are a little used... Feels shallow to me, like my entire foot is locked into the shoe except for heel. Features of the shoe is actually really comfortable and versatile gets steep breathable you.

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